About the sewing post - I think you would be much better off copying and modifying existing garments, rather than grading from a size 10. Do you ever take patterns from existing garments? I NEVER use premade patterns as they NEVER fit me. I take basic shapes from my wardrobe, copy the shapes onto paper and then go crazy from there. Add a pleat, ruffle, pocket, collar, cuff, length whatever. At least then you are starting from something positive, than battling with something frustrating!!

I’ve had a bit of joy copying patterns of existing garments, but I don’t quite have anything like what I want (even though it’s just a bodice and full skirt!) However, I might dig around and find something to base it on… it’s just arms and boobs are difficult to draft for, I don’t envy your job at all!

I generally have good luck with patterns, that is if they’re in my size, I rarely even have to do a full bust adjustment and I have G cups!!! I have a super cute plan for a scalloped hem skirt and neckline, oh god I have so many plans.